For a time the largest and most cultured city in Europe, Córdoba is the jewel of the Al Ándalus journey. Its Mezquita-Catedral is unlike anywhere else on earth: row upon row of red-and-white double arches — over 850 columns — enclosing a Christian cathedral raised, astonishingly, within the mosque.

Beyond the mosque

Around it winds the Judería, the old Jewish quarter, with the flower-filled patios for which Córdoba is famous, the synagogue, and the Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir beneath the Calahorra tower. On the Al Ándalus the visit is guided and unhurried.